Watches We Lost in 2022
It’s 2023 and 2022 is history. While we bade farewell to the year we regained some sense of normalcy after COVID, some watch models, like many before them, left us too. Here are four watches that I managed to get before they were discontinued.
1. Tag Heuer Aquaracer WBD1111
My first exposure to a proper watch (not kids’ watches) was my dad’s Tag Heuer diver from the 90s, specifically the white-dialed WK1211. The stainless steel case and bracelet, 200 m water resistance, unidirectional ratcheting dive bezel, date window, and strong lume defined what an adult’s watch is for me. While the model has long been discontinued, the WBD1111 is effectively the 90s’ WK1211 in modern proportions and specifications. While it is still made of stainless steel and has a unidirectional bezel and a date window, the WBD1111 is 41 mm instead of 36 mm, water resistant to 300 m instead of 200 m, has a much better, solid end-linked bracelet and a monochrome Tag Heuer logo instead of the colorful 90s logo. My favorite parts are definitely the two-tone cyan and blue lume on the hour indices and the two-segment baton hands which resemble elongated Tag Heuer logos.
The WBD1111’s replacement model is the WBP1111 (I know it’s confusing) which does away with many of the features that attracted me to its predecessor. The dial is now silver, which lacked contrast with the slightly smaller, 40 mm steel body to the extent of being dull. The bezel is now flat, losing the ridges that gave the old Aquaracer its 3D look and maritime feel. The lume is now mostly green except for the minute hand and both hands are no longer double-sectioned with contrasting lume. Capability-wise is also a step back with the omission of the date window and reduction to 200 m water resistance. In general, the replacement WBP1111 feels like many steps back with a hike in price. I’m thankful that I managed to snag the last piece of the outgoing WBD1111 from my dealer with a decent discount.
2. Tag Heuer Aquaracer WBD1310
The WBD1310 is the perfect ladies’ watch companion to the WBD1111. The rhodium-plated hour indices and hands set against a black sunray dial whispers sporty jewelry instead of the WBD1111’s masculine utility. While significantly smaller at 32 mm, the ladies’ Aquaracer matches her male counterpart’s capability exactly. Dive bezel, two-tone lume, dual-segmented hands, date window, and 300 m water resistance are all present although you do need pretty good eyesight to be able to identify them at typical viewing distances.
Its replacement model, the WBP1410 kept the same black sunray dial and rhodium-plated indices and hands. Other than that, the feature changes are similar to the male models with the loss of bezel ridges, hands segmentation, date window, and reduction to 200 m water resistance. Just like the male models, the WBP1410 also went on a slight diet, slimming down from the old 32 mm to 30 mm in diameter. That being said, the losses in features are not as obvious on the smaller female Aquaracer as they are difficult to distinguish at such small sizes. What lady fans of Tag Heuer gain is in color options as the new series comes in black, silver-white, light blue, and mother-of-pearl dials. As expected in 2022, there is a corresponding price increase as well.
3. Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946
I have always wanted an automatic chronograph but my small wrist prevented that from happening. That was until I discovered the Longines 1946 Chronograph (reference L2.827.4.73.0) while collecting my other Longines after battery service at the boutique. Its size of 40 mm diameter, 48 mm lug-to-lug length, and 13 mm thickness makes it slightly smaller than the Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono that I have been considering for a long time. The L895 movement powering the 1946 chronograph also feels better without the loose rotor characteristic of Valjoux 7750/7753-based movements such as the Hamilton’s H31. Since I was on the hunt for a dress watch, the wearable size, traceable heritage to a 1946 model, design simplicity, and being the last piece in the boutique sealed the deal on the spot. I later found that the model was no longer listed on Longines’ website, indicating its discontinued status and corroborating the sales associate’s info that Longines’ Heritage models are generally produced only for short periods.
While there isn’t a direct replacement for the 1946 chronograph, Longines still produces other similar chronographs such as the Heritage Classic (ref. L2.830.4.93.0) and Master Collection (ref. L2.629.4.78.3) chronographs. That being said, I would like to focus on the Record Heritage chronograph (ref. L2.921.4.56.2/6) that was launched shortly after my purchase as the sequence made it feel like a replacement. I also find that the Record Heritage chrono offers greater value than my 1946 chrono. The key difference is in the dial as the Record Heritage has a black dial with gold accents and a tachymeter scale on the outer rim. Under the dial, the L895 movement is now COSC-certified and can be enjoyed visually via the transparent case back. For a similar price as the 1946 chronograph, you can get the Record Heritage on a metal bracelet or brown leather strap. The bracelet option definitely offers greater value since you’ll be able to fit a large variety of straps given its 20 mm lug width. Putting aside the major dial differences, the Record Heritage is an upgrade of the 1946 chronograph at the same price. While getting upgrades for the same price was rare in 2022, that was exactly what Longines offered and the reason why I am fond of the brand.
4. Grand Seiko Sport Collection SBGN005
The Grand Seiko SBGN005 was the cheapest Grand Seiko with complications other than a date window in the market. It offered an entrance to the world of Grand Seiko quality while allowing one to enjoy a true GMT watch powered by a highly-accurate quartz movement rated to +/-10 s a year. Zaratsu polishing, highly-faceted indexes, perfectly-angled hands, and great lume are some aspects that GS is known for. Look closer and you will find more surprises such as the two-tone chapter ring to indicate day and night for the GMT hand, horizontally-patterned index tops, and drilled lugs. While the second hand does not sweep mesmerizingly as its Spring Drive cousins, its firm steps enabled by Grand Seiko’s anti-backlash mechanism provide viewers with the pleasure (or despair) of knowing each second’s certain passing.
I am guessing that enough seconds have passed on the watch that Grand Seiko went for a refresh and launched the SBGN029. The biggest change is the relocation of the date window and crown from the 3 o’clock to 4 o’clock position which in my view worsened the symmetry. It also brings the crown closer to a position that the entry-level Seiko 5 series is known for. Also gone are the date window’s metal rim and lume for indices other than those at cardinal positions. The classy, sharp-pointed dauphine hands have their ends clipped for a more blocky, sporty look in the SBGN029. I am definitely no fan of any of the changes. If you think that the removal of elements will result in at least constant prices, I’m afraid that is not the case as the RRP of the SBGN029 is given as 4,600 SGD, a hundred over the 4,500 SGD RRP of the SBGN005. I guess there aren’t too many exceptions to 2022: the year of inflation.
A New Hope?
While 2022 saw the introduction of many great watches, it is unfortunate that we lost quite a few but that’s simply the game of the industry. Hopefully, 2023 will bring more eye candies and fewer discontinuations of beloved models. Since we are at the start of 2023, I shall make a few New Year wishes:
Constant watch prices
Better availabilities (I’m staring at Swatch and Rolex)
Smaller watches (a 38 mm Moonwatch Professional maybe?)
No design updates that make watches look worse
My wishes are probably moonshots but since NASA’s Artemis 1 mission managed to shoot around the moon in the end, I shall still hope.
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