Perfect Engagement Gift for Her: Cartier Tank Must (2021)
Every man that is planning a proposal will want to make his partner feel like a princess. Besides the diamond ring that De Beers’ marketing made mandatory, a watch is the most likely engagement gift for a watch enthusiast. What watch would fit a princess? The first brand that came to my mind was Cartier. From Princess Grace of Monaco to Princesses of Wales, Diana and Catherine, Cartier watches have been receiving informal royal endorsements across eras. The most iconic of Cartier watches is undoubtedly the Tank. That is the watch that we will discuss here, specifically the Cartier Tank Must 2021 small model.
As ironic as it may be, the elegant Cartier Tank was created in 1917 by Louis Cartier after having been inspired by military tanks that started appearing on the brutal battlefields of World War One. The exact tank that inspired Louis Cartier was likely the Renault FT designed by another Louis: Louis Renault. Many dub the Renault FT the first modern tank as it set the standard for all future tanks with wide tracks on both sides and a 360-degree rotating gun turret. That is exactly how the Cartier Tank looks: vertical brancards on both sides and a dial with two hands that goes around as time passes. When Renault got the tank formula right over a century ago, so did Cartier for a timeless, elegant watch that suits both genders. Although Renault no longer makes tanks, Cartier still makes the Tank, allowing royals and commoners alike to enjoy the watch to this day.
While the overall Cartier Tank design remained constant throughout the century, it has birthed several sub-collections such as the squarish Tank Française, the elongated Tank Américaine, the curved Tank Cintrée, the rhombus-shaped Tank Asymétrique and the Tank Chinoise with additional horizontal brancards inspired by the entry gates of Asian architecture. The core and entry-level Tank Solo collection was replaced by the current Tank Must series in 2021 which brought it closer to the rounder design of the precious metal-only Tank Louis Cartier collection. While the Tank Solo had a flat-top brancard with rounded edges, the Tank Must’s brancards are completely rounded with no flat surfaces. The flat sapphire crystal in the Tank Solo has also been replaced with a very slightly horizontally-curved one in the Tank Must. Another difference lies in the crown where the Tank Must has a more pointed synthetic blue spinel compared to the rounded spinel in the Tank Solo. All surfaces bar the case back are highly polished with two perfectly-aligned screws on each side. With a push-pull crown and screw-fastened case back, the Tank Must is only rated as water resistant up to 30 m.
Contained within the iconic body of the Tank Must is its equally iconic dial. Although similar in color to the rest of the watch, the finely textured silvered dial allows it to stand out clearly. The outer edge of the dial is flanked by large black-printed Roman numeral indices that align with the direction of the hands when they’re pointed at each index. Within the ring of numerals comes the minute track which makes reading accurate time from the rectangular dial a simple task. At the center of the dial are the blued sword hour and minute hands which pair perfectly with the blue spinel on the crown. Besides that, the only other elements on the dial are the Cartier logo beneath the 12 o’clock index and a tiny Swiss Made label below the 6 o’clock index. And yes, the Cartier Tank is a Swiss watch, not French as the Cartier brand may suggest. In classic Cartier fashion, the second, secret Cartier logo can be found on the 10 o’clock index, if you look closely enough.
While the large Tank Must model offers the option of an automatic movement with the added second hand, 6 o’clock date, and flinqué pattern at the center, the small model is only available with quartz movements. The only choices are between battery-powered quartz and the recently launched solar-powered quartz which Cartier calls the SolarBeat. I went with the standard battery quartz model with steel bracelet as the SolarBeat models only come with vegan leather options. I was also informed by a sales associate at an authorized dealer that some customers complained of slow recharging times when their SolarBeat units deplete their battery after being left in the dark for extended periods. The battery quartz movement looks very common at a glance but it does offer an impressive battery life. While most battery-powered quartz watches last around two to three years, I was informed by my Cartier sales associate that the Cartier Tank Must’s battery should last 6 years although the Tank Must’s launch materials stated that the movement has an 8-year “autonomy”. Either way, the Tank Must comes with an 8-year extended warranty which includes battery change so you definitely will not need to pay for battery changes for the next 8 years.
The Tank Must comes with an H-link bracelet which is mostly polished except for the brushed horizontal bar. Each of the individual curved links of the bracelet is secured with screws and is removable up to the very last link which will suit owners with extremely small wrists. Compared to the prior Tank Solo with straight links and more brushed parts, the new Tank Must definitely looks more like jewelry than a tool. At the end of the bracelet is a press-fit butterfly clasp which can take a while to get used to. While a push-button butterfly clasp would be easier to use, it will likely introduce additional thickness and break the continuity of the bracelet’s profile. Another key new feature of the Tank Must’s bracelet is the quick-release system. By lifting a metal flap on the end link, the spring bars will be retracted into the end link and the bracelet can then be removed easily. While the 16 mm lug width is not exactly common, Cartier does offer straps in various types of leather and strap maker Delugs recently launched their Cartier Tank strap collection.
While I have always bought watches from authorized dealers to get discounts, the Cartier Tank was the first watch that I bought from a brand boutique. The reason: none of the ADs would offer me a discount citing the entry-level position of the watch, recent shortages, and price hikes. I have to say I’m pleasantly impressed by Cartier boutique’s service, specifically their Marina Bay Sands boutique. The availability of models at boutiques is better than at ADs. If you would like to compare models and explore obscure models, boutiques are definitely the place to go. When it came to the purchase, as I noticed some fine scratches on the only unit they had in store, the boutique was able to check their stock level back in HQ and arranged for a replacement unit to be shipped from Paris in time for my proposal. On top of that, they also offered gift wrapping which I was allowed to stamp the iconic red Cartier wax seal on. In addition, I also got a Cartier red watch pouch and some fragrance samples as gifts. Their service changed my views on purchasing from brand boutiques, so much so that the next watch that I bought was from the Longines boutique as a “couple watch”.
Overall, I am happy to report that my fiancée is enjoying the watch very much. The timeless, elegant design makes the Tank Must a watch that can be worn on almost every occasion. With the recent design revision, the more rounded and polished appearance makes it more jewelry than a tool, perfect as a piece of everyday jewelry for ladies. With a history dating back over a century, it is definitely a watch that watch enthusiasts would approve of. While the movement is not exactly a conversation starter, being a high-efficiency quartz would ensure that the watch will not need any winding or frequent adjustments for years, perfect for someone who is not used to wearing mechanical pieces. I really hope that Cartier will continue making the Tank for the centuries to come so that every lady can feel like a princess when wearing one.
Specifications
Model: Cartier Tank Must (2021), small model, ref. WSTA0051
Movement: High-efficiency quartz
Size: 22 mm wide, 29.5 mm lug-to-lug, 16 mm lug width, 6.6 mm thickness
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Horizontally-curved sapphire
Water Resistance: 3 bar/30 m
Bracelet: Steel H-link bracelet with press-fit butterfly clasp and quick release
RRP: 4,550 SGD
Gallery
